Haïda Gwaïi — At the Edge of the World
Haïda Gwaïi — At the Edge of the World
By Antoine Caron Cabana
Haïda Gwaïi — At the Edge of the World
End of summer in Haïda Gwaïi — finally checking the far left of Canuckistan off the bucket list. A place where the coast stretches endlessly, the land fades toward the Pacific, and the fog can hide a whale.
Where the Journey Begins
Straight off the overnight ferry, we explored northern beaches, searching for surf, though summer rarely delivers waves here. With no schedule and no plan, we ended up picking up a couple of bags of drift plastic. Among the finds was a tag fragment from South Korea stamped 거북 (Turtle) and 부산 (Busan…probably the port). Even the ocean’s trash comes with its own little stories.
Scenic roads
Further, the steep forest service roads lead to Bonanza Beach, in the Duu Guusd Conservancy. A stretch of sand framed by towering cedars and giant spruce burls, scattered with red abalone shells, where even treasures are carried from across the ocean. Walking there, camping under the stars, listening to the waves while bald eagles soared overhead, it felt like the edge of the world.
Haïda Gwaïi is more than natural beauty. It’s the ancestral territory of one of North America’s oldest living cultures. From the poles and art to the stories carried forward at the Haida Heritage Centre, the land and its people are inseparable.
More than surfing
Surfing in Haïda Gwaïi is like waiting for cookies to come out of the oven. You can’t rush it. The waves ask for patience, so you dawdle, wander the beaches, and let your pockets fill with smooth rocks and little treasures.
It’s not a pursuit of performance, but of presence.
Truth is, it was the perfect chance to step back, exhale, and enjoy while keeping souvenirs.
Until we meet again
Haïda Gwaïi is remote, raw, and humbling. It’s a patchwork of history, culture, and nature and another unforgettable chapter checked off the bucket list. Winter swells, we’ll see you soon.
Photos : Antoine Caron Cabana
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